Working with Logs

Traditional woodworking equipment counts on at least one flat surface, and working with logs
violates the simple rule. This can lead to rather dangerous situations when working whit traditional
equipment. Now typically specialized tools are used when creating rustic furniture, but these tools
are expensive and not typically tool a person would invest in for limited use.

This project requires the use of logs for the legs and D-logs for the drawer fronts, which I could not
justify the cost of the specialized tools. So I was forced to be creative, which this page covers how
I was able to over come the issue of working with logs.

Jig The concept of the jig is simple; make flat sides on the logs. Since most of the logs I was working with were 6” or less I could get by with one jig. The jig was a 8.5” box, 24” long and constructed out of 3/4” plywood.
Securing the log Now this requires the use of screws to secure the log in the jig, which will leave holes. In my application it was fine since the legs are to have a rustic appearance and somewhat rough. Notice the four black circles; these are the indications of the ideal screw placement for securing the log in the jig.
Positioning the Log Position the log so it is seated into one corner, and as you can see the longer end needs to be shimmed to support the log. Just as a clarification for later on: The “High Side” is the position of the jig that causes the edge log to be the highest from the table. And likewise the “Low Side” is the opposite side of the “High Side”.
Secure the Log Drill pilot holes (0.125”) for the dry wall screws in the area that log contacts the side of the jig. On all the logs I was working with the marked location seemed to work for all of them. Install the two side screws first and the slide out the jig and install one of the lower screws, and then the last bottom screw.
High Side Cuts These are rough cuts and should be made these cuts about 1” from the actual cut. Flip over the Log and Jig start cutting on the bottom side and expect that the saw may crash into the log. This was a small problem, but wasn’t a show stopper. I made a couple partial passes about 2” apart.
Low Side Cuts These are rough cuts and should be made these cuts about 1” from the actual cut. Flip the jig back up right and lower the saw just so it clears the log. Make a couple passes trying to line them up with partial cuts in the previous step.
Hand Saw the Rest Using a hand saw line up two of the set of cuts and saw the log into two pieces.
Final Cuts Move the jig to the stop and start with the high side cut. Once again the saw may crash into the log. Back out the blade and stop the saw.
Chisel Knock off part of the log wing a chisel.
Saw Thru Finish sawing through the high side.
Cut Off Flip the jig over and saw thru to cut off the last part. Pay close attention that the round piece of log that is sawed off doesn’t roll back into the blade.
Start on the Other End Rotate the jig around and start on the High Side. Like in the first cuts position the jig about 1” from the actual final cut. This way the length can be rough cut first.
Major Clash This end of the log was much longer that the other and would require some serious chiseling. Make a couple partial cuts about 2” a part.
Big Time Chiseling This end would require some heavy hammering. So I moved the jig and log from the table to a more sturdy surface.
Cut Thru Return the jig to the radial arm saw table and cut thru the first cut, and take the log back to the other surface and chisel more of the interfering log. Then return to the saw and complete the cut.
Last Cut Flip the Jig over and make the final cut to size. Once again be cautious about the round cut off piece that it doesn’t roll back into the blade.
Finished The only thing left to do is remove the completed log from the jig.